Tag Archives: Black and White

Ilford HP5

 

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JCH PAN 400

Full development stats:

  • Rodinol 1+50, 20ºc. 22 minutes. Agitate every 30s for 15s
  • Ilford Stop Bath 1+9 for 1 minute constant agitation
  • Ilford Fixer 1+4 for 10 minutes
  • Wash for 10 minutes
  • Tetanol Wetting agent 1+400 in deionised water for 1m. No agitation.

I am in love with JCH 400. The results are outstanding. Great tonal range, contrast, sharpness and grain. This film was shot during the London snowy period (Feb 2018) and the following week (1st week of March).

 

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Bergger Pancro 400

Full development stats:

  • Rodinol 1+25, 20ºc. 8 minutes. Agitate every 30s for 15s
  • Ilford Stop Bath 1+9 for 1 minute constant agitation
  • Ilford Fixer 1+4 for 10 minutes
  • Wash for 10 minutes
  • Tetanol Wetting agent 1+400 in deionised water for 1m. No agitation.

I took a roll of Bergger Pancro out to Kew Gardens. The results are interesting, I was not expecting so much grain. The research I have done on this film (Flickr, Wiki, Google) showed the images to be fairly fine grain for this speed. The wide shots are fairly standard with no remarkable features but where this film has stood out is on the close ups. The grain and contrast definitely compliment the photograph.

I am unsure why there was so much grain, I followed the develop instructions from the box. I bought this roll from eBay so am suspicious I have bought an out of date roll or a cassette which is not Bergger but labelled as such and the film inside is a crappy coated emulsion?

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Kentmere 100 pushed 1600

I decided to go crazy and push a roll of Kentmere 100 to 1600iso.

It took a while to decide which development time I should go for. Kodak, Ilford, Adox and various forums all suggest different timings. I was reading from one commenter to double the timings plus 20%. The Massive DevChart has a rough guide on how to work out timings when pushing however did not extend to four stops. I decided on Rodinol 1+100 at 120 minutes, 20ºc. The first 5 minutes I agitated the soup every 30s for 15s. After 30 minutes I agitated for 15s.

Full development stats:

  • Rodinol 1+100, 20ºc. 120 minutes. Agitate every 30s for 15s for 5 minutes. Stand for 30m, agitate 15s, stand.
  • Ilford Stop Bath 1+9 for 1 minute constant agitation
  • Ilford Fixer 1+4 for 12 minutes
  • Wash for 10 minutes
  • Tetanol Wetting agent 1+400 in deionised water for 1m. Gentle agitation.

I must admit when I pulled the negative out of the soup I was expecting a series of black frames from either the contrast going crazy or from over developing. I peeled back the first few frames to check the fix and to my surprise saw some well developed shots!

Kentmere 100 is rated best between 50-200 ISO….. so I was expecting a lot of grain….once I dried and scanned the negative I was blown away how detailed the shots are. The grain is fairly small and overall contrast not as intense as I expected. The night time/darker photos are when I was drunk on a night out and was underexposing instead of overexposing. The daytime photographs on the street I overexposed by at least a stop.

There is change in the contrast levels of each photo, some pictures (such as the swimming pool shot) have a lot of grey tone without much highlight and shadow whereas other pictures are more contrasty.

I will push this film beyond four stops in the future to see how far it will go and still give me useable shots.

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Lucky SHD 100 push to 200

  • Rodinol 1+25 for 9m 30s minutes at 20ºc. Agitate for 30s then every 30s for 15s.
  • Ilford Stop Bath 1+19, 20ºc, constant agitation for 1 minute
  • Ilford Fixer 1+4, 20ºc for 9 minutes
  • Wash for 10 minutes
  • Tetanol Wetting Agent 1+400 deionised water. Leave to soak for 30s rinse off any bubbles using deionised water
  • Hang dry for 2 hours
  • Scan using Plustek 8200i
  • Crop 6×4
  • Curves
  • Clean
  • Upload

This is the first time I have shot with Lucky 100 and I am very pleased with the results. I was surprised how much detail I was able to read from the negative as quite a few photographs looked washed out, as a result the contrast was fairly flat, even though pushed. The final photographs uploaded have been worked in Lightroom.

I try to retain as many aesthetic features of the film type I am shooting however on this occasion I made adjustments to achieve the best image overall as the contrast was too flat for the effect I was going for.

I used the recommended development times from DevChart. Next time I will add an extra 2-4 minutes on to the developer to see how this affects the negative on Lucky 100.

One thing I found frustrating is there are no identifiable marks on the negative. No frame numbers, film type etc. This may be me nit picking but I like having frame numbers next to my shot so I can correlate that to my digital archive. The plastic used for the negative feels flimsier than the Kentmere 400 which is hanging on the left in the photograph above. The negative also curls easily even when dried straight for two hours, I have not experienced this amount of curling once dried from any other film I have shot, ever.

I love the Lucky 100 film. It’s produced some strong black and whites with detail in the shadows and highlights, images are sharp with an un-intrusive grain. A bonus to having a low contrast negative is the massive tonal range and control in post with where I wanted contrast.

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Kentmere 400

  • Rodinol 1+50 for 20 minutes at 20ºc. Agitate for 30s then every 30s for 15s.
  • Ilford Stop Bath 1+19, 20ºc, constant agitation for 1 minute
  • Ilford Fixer 1+4, 20ºc for 9 minutes
  • Wash for 10 minutes
  • Tetanol Wetting Agent 1+400 deionised water. Leave to soak for 30s rinse off any bubbles using deionised water
  • Hang dry for 2 hours
  • Scan using Plustek 8200i (negafix profile Ilford Delta 400 as no Kentmere available)
  • Crop 6×4
  • Curves
  • Clean
  • Upload

Some great contrast, grain and tones from the Kentmere 400. I scan my film at 300DPI and for this particular roll I used the delta negafix profile as it provided good results from the highlights and shaddow. I used the Canon AE-1 for this roll of film with a 50mm prime lens. The camera handled well, for its age there was no light bleed on the roll of film. I noticed when scanning/in post that the negatives are a little darker, the camera meter may be suggesting an exposure that is under by a stop or so. I will test this further in upcoming shoots.

I found the manual focus on the old FD lens exceptionally smooth and quick to use. The manual film wind coupled with the retro look and feel of the AE-1 gave a very enjoyable shooting experience. I would highly recommend this camera!

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Ilford Pan 100 pushed to 200

It has been a long time since I uploaded to this blog, my first post in over 3 years is Ilford Pan 100 pushed to 200. Developed myself. Details are below….

  • Rodinol developer 1+25 for 13 minutes at 20º. Agitate for 30 seconds then agitate every 30s for 30s
  • Ilford Stop Bath 1+19 for 1 minute at 20º Agitate for 30 seconds then agitate every 30s for 10s
  • Ilford Fixer 1+4 for 9 minutes at 20º Agitate for 30 seconds then agitate every 30s for 10s
  • Wash with cold water for 10 minutes
  • Tetanol wetting agent 1+400 (deionised water) for 1 min at 20º Agitate continuously
  • Leave to dry for 2 hours
  • Scan at 300dpi using Plustek 8200i
  • Crop in Lightroom
  • Remove dust marks in post
  • Curves
  • Upload
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Ilford XP2 Super 400

No pushing or pulling, shot straight out of the box. With a little bit of love.

Ilford XP2 Super 400 is the second film I shot at London Pride 2014. The streets were once again alive and buzzing, by this time of the day i’d had a fair bit to drink and was definitely enjoying the evening!

I have said this a lot over the past year but Ilford always performs well. This film has an excellent tonal range and really bites in the shadows whilst holding on to details. The highlights are given a glow by the grain softening them.

The 400 speed SP2 has a much larger and higher grain value compared to other 400 speed films such as Kodak TMAX or BW400CN that boast a super fine grain at high speed. That being said, the ‘rugged’, grainy look is something that I love about Ilford.

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Rollei Infrared 400s pushed to 800

Over the last week i have made it my mission to get some film shot, it had been a while as i had started to use digital again for events, interiors and project work.

So the weather is improving and the summer may finally be upon us! (As i write this it’s getting darker and colder….hmmm) I have finished my dissertation and now full steam ahead into my Final Major Project. I’ve developed a project based on domestic violence with men. I had a radio interview this afternoon promoting the campaign and awareness. Please take a look at www.invisiblecampaign.com 

There was initially some problems with the developing of this film. The developer used with this film (Neotinol) isn’t listed with Rollei on Digital Truth so there was a bit of confusion with the dev times. Neotinol is similar to TMAX and DT rate it a 2ASA and 25ASA (mine is massively underexposed from those) which would relate to 12 min and 7 1/2 mins dev times respectively.

After a bit of umming and arring a clip test of 18 minutes was carried out to see the results and the images turned out fantastic, the rest of the film was then developed with an extra couple of minutes on top.

The results are great! The only thing i am getting a bit frustrated about is the lack of profiles with the negative scanner software SilverFast. I wish that it was possible to create complex customisable profiles. I am considering printing the photographs from the negatives to light sensitive paper and then scanning them on a flat bed scanner to see if the results are different. Of course scanning onto light sensitive paper will (in my opinion) always create a much better result than scanning digitally, i am more interested in how the properties of the paper will be read by the scanner rather than of the negative.

For this roll i used a mixture of Kodak BW+ 400 and Kodak TMAX and TRI-X for the profiles to use. Each profile gave varied results but i decided on the profile which gave the best range from lows to lights.

An interesting mix of highlights and shadows in this roll of film, as i didn’t use an IR filter or any special treatments the film remains relatively normal to look at. The highlights are smooth and have a soft glow to them which improves overall image quality. The shadows are deep and retain good detail, there is a fairly good contrast which is no doubt because of the push and post production work.

Whilst shooting the film i had a bit of an obsession with walls and people around them. The entire film consists of people interacting around walls however these where the images that made it to the final edit.

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Ilford Delta 3200 pushed to 12800

Delta 3200 is one of my favourite black and white film available on the market, it produces fantastic contrasts and stunning grain which is irresistible to me. Already being pushed from manufactured 1000 ISO to box 3200 i pushed to 12800 to see what affect if had on the film. The results, i think, are exceptional.

Pushing the Delta punched the contrasts right out, creating deep shadows and punchy highlights. It has also blown out the grain massively but does not create a horrible look to the images, in fact i believe that it has created an old school film look.

Before i continue i have a confession…due to being insanely busy with University projects and my dissertation i couldn’t develop this film myself, i was close to doing it however i just haven’t got the time at the moment. Genie used Neotonal Developer –  23 mins at 21º C

Before sending the film off i was considering to develop in Microphen Stock at 16 minutes which according to www.digitaltruth.com this is the correct time for processing this push. The results from Neotonal are good to say the least!

The photographs span over a month period, this is the slowest roll of film i have shot as i have been shooting a lot of digital lately.  The photos are shot around The The Britain & Elephant & Castle. The last few shots of this film were shot when i was in Charing Cross and Waterloo station after having too much to drink! The multiple exposure of an e-cigarette has some movement as i didn’t carry my tripod.

Whilst the sun was out i shot with my ND16 filter which gives a 4 stop reduction of light entering the lens so i could keep my aperture lower. I tried to stay indoors as much as possible while shooting for obvious reasons.

I will be shooting 12800 again, perhaps even 25600 or higher to see how far this film can go and how much i can squeeze out of developer. Yes, next time i will develop this film myself.

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